Garage Door Questions — Answered
Thirty-five of the questions St. Louis homeowners actually ask us, grouped by topic. If yours isn’t here, call and ask. We’ll tell you the truth even when the truth is “you don’t need us for that.”
Emergencies & Response Times
How fast can you get to my house?
For most of St. Louis City and inner St. Louis County we can usually be there the same day, and often within two to four hours for a broken spring or a car trapped in the garage. Outer county, St. Charles County and northern Jefferson County are typically same day, or next morning if you call late in the afternoon. We schedule in two-hour arrival windows and text you when the technician is en route.
Do you really answer the phone 24/7?
Standard service hours are 7:00am to 9:00pm, seven days a week, and those calls are answered by a person here in St. Louis. Outside those hours we take genuine emergency calls around the clock — a door stuck open overnight, storm damage, a vehicle trapped. Overnight dispatch carries a surcharge, and we quote it on the phone before a truck rolls, never after.
My car is trapped in the garage. What should I do right now?
Stop pressing the remote. If a spring is broken, running the opener strips the drive gear or bends the top section and turns a $260 repair into a much larger one. Do not try to lift the door alone either — a double door with a failed spring is 150 to 200 pounds of unbalanced dead weight that lifts crooked. Call us and tell the dispatcher a vehicle is trapped; that moves you up the board.
My door won’t close and I have to leave the house. How do I secure it?
If the opener won’t close the door, first check the photo-eye sensors near the floor on both sides — a nudged bracket, a cobweb or low sun angle will stop the door every time. If the door is physically stuck open and you must leave, close the interior door between the garage and the house, lock it, and remove anything valuable and portable. Then call us. Even at night we can usually get the opening secured, with the permanent repair finished in daylight.
A storm damaged my garage door. Do you handle insurance claims?
We document damage with photographs and an itemized written estimate in the format adjusters expect, and we’ll talk with your adjuster directly if you ask. We don’t file the claim for you and we won’t promise to make your deductible disappear — that’s insurance fraud and it’s a red flag when a contractor offers it. Missouri gets a real severe-weather season, and after hail or high wind a garage door is worth having inspected, because it’s the largest single opening in most houses.
Something hit my door and it’s crooked in the tracks. Can I run it?
No. An off-track door run under power bends the track, cracks sections and can pull the whole assembly down. Unplug the opener, leave the door alone, and call. Most off-track resets are $160 to $320 and take about an hour — but only if nobody has forced it first. See off-track repair.
Springs & Cables
How do I know for sure a spring is broken?
Look at the steel shaft above the door opening. A broken torsion spring shows a clean gap of about two inches in what should be a continuous coil — it looks like someone cut a piece out. On an extension spring system, look along the upper tracks for a spring hanging loose or lying on the floor. The other tell: the opener runs, the trolley slides down the rail, and the door doesn’t move.
How much does garage door spring replacement cost in St. Louis?
In this market it runs $220–$350 installed for a matched pair on a standard single door, $280–$450 on a double, parts and labor, with the diagnostic fee waived. A 25,000-cycle high-cycle upgrade adds roughly $70–$130 and about doubles the service life. Typical ranges are on our pricing page, and your exact price is quoted in writing before any work begins.
Why do you replace both springs when only one broke?
Because both were installed the same day and have run identical cycles. The survivor isn’t healthy, it’s just next in line — usually weeks or months behind. Replacing one means a second diagnostic and second labor charge inside a year, and it runs the door on mismatched torque, which wears the cables, drums and opener. The pair costs a fraction of two visits.
How long do garage door springs last in Missouri?
Springs are rated in cycles, not years — one cycle is one full open and close. Builder-grade 10,000-cycle springs run about seven years at four cycles a day. High-cycle 25,000-cycle springs roughly double that. St. Louis conditions shorten both: humid summers and freeze-thaw winters corrode the coils and dry out the lubrication.
Can I buy a spring online and replace it myself?
Please don’t. Winding a torsion spring puts several hundred foot-pounds of stored energy against two steel bars held above your head, and a slipped bar becomes a projectile at face height. Springs also have to be matched to your door’s weight, height and drum size by wire diameter, inside diameter and length. The wrong spring makes the door slam shut or forces the opener to carry the load until the gear strips. This is the one repair we genuinely insist you don’t attempt.
What’s the difference between torsion and extension springs?
Torsion springs mount on a shaft directly above the opening and wind up as the door closes. They’re better balanced, last longer, and are standard on nearly everything built in the last thirty years. Extension springs run horizontally along each upper track and stretch as the door closes. They’re cheaper and were common on lighter single doors — you still find them constantly on older detached garages in South City, Lemay, Overland and Ferguson.
My extension springs don’t have cables running through them. Is that a problem?
Yes, and it’s the most common safety defect we find in older St. Louis garages. A safety containment cable runs through the center of each extension spring and anchors at both ends so a broken spring can’t fly across the garage. They’re frequently missing — never installed, or removed during a past repair and never put back. They’re inexpensive and we install them as part of any extension spring service.
My cable snapped and the door hangs crooked. Can I still use it?
No. With one cable gone the door is being held by one side only, and running it will pull it off the track or drop it. Unplug the opener and leave it. Cable replacement in pairs runs $150–$260 including re-seating the drums and re-balancing the door. See cable & drum repair.
Why is everyone in my subdivision breaking springs at the same time?
Because you all bought the same door in the same year. St. Charles County subdivisions in Wentzville, Cottleville, Lake St. Louis, O’Fallon and Dardenne Prairie went up in tight build windows with identical 16'x7' and 18'x8' doubles on identical builder-grade springs. At normal use that’s about seven years, so the failures arrive as a cohort. If your neighbor’s just went, yours is close.
Is the high-cycle spring upgrade worth the money?
For most households, yes. It adds about $70–$130 and roughly doubles service life, so it pays for itself if it prevents one future service call. It’s an easy call if the garage is your main entrance to the house, if you have teenagers coming and going, or if the door is a heavy insulated double.
Garage Door Openers
The opener runs but the door doesn’t move. What’s wrong?
Two likely causes. If the trolley travels down the rail and nothing happens, the door is disconnected from the opener or a spring is broken. If the motor hums but nothing moves at all, the drive gear or sprocket has stripped — a classic chain-drive failure, and a $150–$260 repair. Either way, stop cycling it.
My door starts down and then reverses back up. Why?
Usually the photo-eye safety sensors: misaligned brackets, a dirty lens, a cobweb, or direct sun hitting the receiver. Check that both indicator lights are steady, not blinking. If the sensors are fine, the down-force or travel limit setting is off, or something in the door’s balance is making the opener think it hit an obstruction. A door that’s badly out of balance will do this consistently.
My remote stopped working but the wall button still does.
Start with the battery, then reprogram the remote to the opener — the learn button is on the motor head. If reprogramming fails, the receiver logic board may be the issue, or a nearby radio source is interfering. Remote and keypad programming runs $60–$140 on its own and is free when we’re there for another repair.
Should I repair or replace my garage door opener?
Repair it if it’s under about ten years old and the fault is a sensor, a logic board or a gear kit. Replace it if it’s fifteen-plus years old, the gear has already been replaced once, or it predates rolling-code security and photo-eye safety standards. We price both options and don’t earn more for recommending one over the other.
Which opener is quietest for a garage with a bedroom above it?
A belt drive, or a wall-mount jackshaft unit if you want the motor off the ceiling entirely. But most noise complaints in St. Louis mid-century ranches and split-levels aren’t the opener at all — they’re worn steel rollers with exposed bearings. Swapping to 13-ball nylon rollers ($140–$240 for ten) often solves it without touching the opener. See roller & track repair.
Do I need battery backup on a new opener?
We recommend it. Storm season here knocks out power regularly, and a battery backup means you can still get the car out during an outage without pulling the emergency release and manually lifting a heavy door. It adds modestly to the cost and it’s the feature customers thank us for most often after a summer storm.
How much does a new garage door opener cost installed?
Most St. Louis homeowners pay $425–$625 for a chain drive, $475–$750 for a belt drive with battery backup, and $650–$1,050 for a wall-mount jackshaft. All include installation, programming, safety sensor setup and haul-away of the old unit. Details on the opener page.
What is the emergency release cord for?
The red cord hanging from the trolley disconnects the door from the opener so you can operate it by hand during a power outage. Only pull it with the door fully closed. Pulling it while the door is open lets the door drop if the springs are weak or broken — that’s how people get hurt. If you’re not sure of your spring condition, don’t experiment with it.
New Doors & Installation
How long does a new garage door installation take?
A standard single or double replacement is typically four to six hours on site, including removing the old door and track, setting the new sections, installing new track and hardware, sizing and winding the springs, and re-setting the opener. Custom carriage house and full-view glass doors can take longer. Lead time on the door itself depends on the manufacturer and finish.
How much does a new garage door cost installed in St. Louis?
Most St. Louis homeowners pay $1,100–$1,900 for an insulated steel single, $1,700–$3,200 for a 16'x7' insulated double, $2,100–$3,600 for an 18'x8', and $3,000–$8,000+ for carriage house, custom or full-view glass. Removal and disposal of the old door, new track, hardware and springs are all included. See new door installation.
Is an insulated door worth it in this climate?
On an attached garage, yes — and more than most people expect. St. Louis swings from below freezing in January to well over 100°F under a July roof, and an attached garage shares a wall and often a ceiling with living space. An R-9 to R-18 door section is the difference between a bonus room above the garage that’s usable in August and one that isn’t. On a detached, unheated garage the case is weaker and we’ll say so.
Can I replace one damaged panel instead of the whole door?
Often yes, at $350–$800, if the model is still in production and the finish can be matched. It stops being the right answer when multiple sections are damaged, when the manufacturer has left the market, or when a hidden bend in the top section means the door will never track properly again. We price both options honestly. See panel replacement.
What garage door sizes are standard around St. Louis?
Older housing stock in South City, Affton, Lemay and Overland is mostly 8'x7' and 9'x7' singles, often on detached garages built for much smaller cars. Mid-century ranches in Kirkwood, Webster Groves, Crestwood and Florissant commonly run 16'x7' doubles. Newer St. Charles County construction is heavily 16'x7' and 18'x8', often with a third single bay.
How long should a new garage door last here?
An insulated steel door typically gives 20 to 30 years in this climate with maintained hardware. Springs are the wear item and will be replaced once or twice in that span. Openers run 10 to 15 years, though sensors and remotes usually need attention long before the motor does.
Do you install doors on detached garages and outbuildings?
Yes — city alley garages, rural shops in Jefferson County, tall outbuildings needing high-lift track and wall-mount openers. Older detached structures sometimes need jamb repair or a new header before a door can be hung properly, and we’ll tell you that at the estimate rather than discovering it on installation day.
Pricing & Payment
Do you charge a service call or trip fee?
There’s a $59 diagnostic fee for a repair call, waived in full the moment you approve the repair. Estimates for a new garage door are free with no fee at all. No separate travel, fuel or mileage charges anywhere in our service area.
Is your price different depending on my ZIP code?
No. One flat-rate price book across all five counties. The same repair costs the same in Ladue, Florissant, Bevo Mill, Wentzville and Granite City. We’ll quote you a range on the phone before we even ask for your address.
Why flat rate instead of hourly?
Hourly billing puts you and the technician on opposite sides of the clock, and it gives you no way to know the bill before he arrives. Flat rate moves the risk of a job running long onto us. You approve a written number before anything is touched, and that number is what you pay — even if a rusted bracket adds forty minutes.
What payment methods do you take?
Cash, check, Visa, Mastercard, American Express and Discover. Payment is due when the work is complete and you’ve watched the door cycle. Standard repairs require no deposit; new door orders take a deposit because the door is built to your opening.
Do you offer financing?
Yes on larger projects — a new door, a door-and-opener package, a two-door replacement — through a third-party lender and subject to credit approval. Ask when you book and we’ll send the application ahead of the appointment. No fee to apply.
Are there discounts?
We run coupons on repairs, installations and tune-ups (see our pricing page), and we offer 10% off up to $75 for seniors, active military, veterans, teachers and first responders. Mention it when you book — coupons can’t be applied after the work is finished. Discounts don’t stack; we apply whichever saves you more.
What warranty do I get, and is it in writing?
Parts and labor, both, with the term printed on your invoice before you pay. Manufacturer warranties on doors and openers are separate and are registered in your name at installation. If a part we installed fails inside the term, we come back and make it right at no charge.
Safety
How do I test my door’s auto-reverse safety feature?
Two tests, both worth doing twice a year. For the mechanical reverse, lay a 2x4 flat on the floor in the door’s path and close the door — it should touch the wood and immediately reverse. For the photo eyes, start the door closing and wave an object through the beam near the floor; it should stop and reverse. If either test fails, stop using the opener and call.
How do I know if my door is properly balanced?
With the door fully closed, pull the emergency release cord to disconnect the opener, then lift the door by hand to about waist height and let go. A balanced door stays roughly where you put it. If it slams down or shoots up, the springs are wrong or worn, and the opener has been carrying weight it was never designed to lift — which is how openers die early.
Are photo-eye sensors legally required?
Residential garage door openers manufactured for sale in the United States have been required to include an external entrapment protection system — in practice, photo eyes — since federal safety rules took effect in the early 1990s. If your opener predates that, it has no photo eyes at all, and that’s a strong argument for replacement, especially in a household with kids or pets.
What should I teach my kids about the garage door?
Three things: the remote is not a toy, never run underneath a moving door, and never touch the springs, cables or bottom brackets. Mount wall controls at least five feet up, out of a child’s reach. The bottom bracket in particular is under full spring tension even when the door is closed — it’s the single most dangerous bolt on the assembly.
How often should a garage door be serviced?
Once a year for a typical household, and more often if the garage is your main entrance and the door runs eight or ten times a day. A 25-point tune-up runs $79–$129 and includes balance, lubrication, hardware torque, cable and spring inspection, and both safety tests. It exists to interrupt the cascade: a fraying cable snaps, a snapped cable pulls the door off track, an off-track door bends track and cracks panels.
What can I safely do myself?
Plenty. Clean and align the photo eyes. Wipe the tracks (don’t grease them — rollers roll, they don’t slide). Apply a proper garage door lubricant to hinges, roller stems, bearings and the spring coils, not WD-40. Tighten visible track bolts. Run the two safety tests. What to leave alone: springs, cables, bottom brackets and the winding cones. Those are under load.
Why does my door get noisy and stiff in winter?
Freeze-thaw cycling. Moisture condenses on cold steel, hardware corrodes, lubrication thickens and dries out, and the bottom seal stiffens and can freeze to the slab. A fall tune-up with the right lubricant handles most of it. If the door won’t break free from an iced slab, don’t force it with the opener — that’s how cables jump their drums.
Service Area & Permits
What areas do you cover?
St. Louis City, all of St. Louis County, St. Charles County, Jefferson County and the Illinois Metro East — Edwardsville, Belleville, Collinsville, O’Fallon IL, Granite City and neighbors. The full list with response-time zones and ZIP coverage is on our service areas page.
Do I need a permit to replace a garage door in St. Louis?
It depends entirely on your municipality, and this metro has more than 80 separate municipal governments in St. Louis County alone. Some require a permit for a door replacement, some only for structural changes to the opening, and some require the contractor to be registered with the city. We check per address, handle permitting where it applies, and pass the fee through at cost with no markup.
I live in a historic district. Does that change anything?
It can. Lafayette Square, Soulard, Compton Heights and Old Town St. Charles all have review processes for exterior changes visible from the street, and plenty of subdivisions add an HOA architectural committee on top. Approval is usually straightforward if you pick an appropriate style — the problem is getting a letter after installation. We help you choose something that clears review the first time.
Do you charge more to cross the river into Illinois?
No. Metro East addresses get the same crews, the same stocked trucks and the same flat rate. Illinois municipalities have their own permit rules for door replacement, which we check before ordering, same as we do in Missouri.
Are you licensed and insured?
Yes — general liability and workers’ compensation, and we’re registered in the jurisdictions where we work. Ask and we’ll email the certificate before your appointment. Never let anyone work on a torsion spring system without it; if an uninsured worker is injured on your property, that can become your problem.
Who actually shows up at my house?
A True Lift technician — background-checked, uniformed, in a marked truck and covered by our insurance. We text you his name and photo before he arrives. Whoever is in your driveway works to our standards and is accountable to us for the job, and True Lift stands behind the warranty regardless. You’ll never get a stranger in an unmarked van we found on a lead app, and you’ll never be handed off to a company you didn’t call. More on how we’re structured on our about page.
Do you service commercial and multi-family properties?
Yes — rolling steel doors, sectional commercial doors, dock equipment, apartment and condo garages, and scheduled preventive maintenance agreements covering multiple locations across the metro under one contract. See commercial garage doors.
Still Have a Question? Ask a Person.
Call and describe what the door is doing. If we can talk you through it over the phone for free, we will — that happens more often than you’d think.